Kai Staats: writing

At the Door of a Decade

The Sale of Terra Soft to Fixstars
An interview by Kristen Tatti, Reporter for the Northern Colorado Business Report, with Kai Staats, founder and former CEO of Terra Soft Solutions.

Just shy of ten years from the formation of Terra Soft Solutions, I am proud to have sold my company to Fixstars of Tokyo, Japan. This experience was truly positive, well timed and well executed, a blessing in challenging times as described in the following interview with NCBR.

> Has acquisition always been a possibility for Terra Soft?
> Have you entertained previous offers?

The potential for acquisition is about being willing to sell, yes, but more importantly about someone wanting to acquire. Some companies are built to be sold, an acquisition the most common exist strategy. While I was open to the possibility of selling Terra Soft, and had entertained two conversations twice in Terra Soft’s history, it was not until working with Fixstars and Miki-san that this became a real opportunity.

> What was Terra Soft’s relationship with Fixstars prior to the acquisition?

Fixstars had for the prior two years used Yellow Dog Linux in their work with IBM, Sony, and their systems which use the Cell Broadband Engine micro-processor.

> Was selling the company a difficult decision to make? Why/why not?

Not at all. A risk, yes. But a difficult decision, no. The timing was right. The acquiring company was a good fit. But most important, I was ready to let go because I recognized that through the acquisition my team and our product line would be accelerated beyond the level otherwise afforded by our then current path.

> How will your role/responsibilities change as the COO of Fixstars?

Very similar to what I was doing as CEO, actually, but with opportunity for more focus on key customer relations and systems integration and knowledge sharing between our North American and Japanese offices.

> Are you releasing financial details of the acquisition?

No.

> I noticed that the Fixstars Solutions subsidiary is headquartered in San
> Jose. Is that office already set up? Will you be working out of the
> Loveland office still?

While working through the due diligence of the acquisition, we were also busy establishing the new company in San Jose. There are no permanent employees in that office location yet, but that team will be built in 2009. My team remains as we were with Terra Soft, in Loveland with home offices in Montreal, Quebec and Victoria, B.C.

> What does this acquisition mean for you and the Terra Soft team
> (ie: new capabilities, focus, markets)?

With the offering of a complete ecosystem, meaning hardware, operating system, and optimized applications, we will be focused on deliver of turn-key, vertical market solutions such as medical imaging, industrial inspection, and financial modeling.

This is the best means by which we can deliver systems built upon the Cell processor, which otherwise presents a challenge to many code developers due to the rather immature, multi-core programming paradigm and associated tools.

> Do you anticipate growth (revenue and employment) at a
> faster/slower/similar pace as a part of Fixstars?

Must faster.

> What will be the biggest change for you, personally?

I am truly excited to work for someone else for the first time in thirteen years as it frees me to focus on my strengths and worry less about my weaknesses.

> What will be the biggest change for the Terra Soft team?

Greater financial stability. Being part of a larger, international organization. With the addition of Japan, we now have four, soon to be five countries represented by our employee and contractor base. This has been a hi-light for me, personally, as I see cross-cultural business interactions as a bridge to greater personal empathy and understanding.

> Looking back at the past 10 years, what was the biggest challenge Terra
> Soft faced?

The chicken-and-egg reality of trying to gain the trust of larger organizations who recognize and appreciate the value of our products, but questioned our ability to support them or their customers. We could not grow our team without larger customers, but could not gain larger customers without growing our team.

With Fixstars, we have moved from a half dozen engineers to over 80. With the largest Power architecture Linux development team in the world, this is resolved.

> What was the biggest success?

There were many. Building a company for which my employees enjoyed working. Every product launch. Travel across the world. Building personal relationships with talented, smart, kind and caring individuals that transcend the confines of business. Navigating the challenging, intricate relationships in Sony and IBM. Helping process the images from the Mars rovers. Working with Lockheed Martin, the Sony SCEI (PS3) and B2B (BCU-100) teams. And beating the odds, again and again and again when so many people said it was impossible.

> Any regrets?

None. There were many mistakes, but there is no value in regretting them. Experience comes in many forms, and positive or negative at the moment, it remains a valued experience.

> What will you miss about being a business owner? What will you be glad to be done with?

Nothing :)

> Would you consider starting another business in the future?

Already have two in motion.

> What challenges do you see in the future for Linux operating systems? What
> challenge has Linux already overcome?

Linux is like no other product on the market. It evolves rapidly, finding entropy in the midst of what may appear to be chaos, a community of like-minded, talented individuals diligently applying their ever-increasing experience to improve the quality of thousands of applications.

In recent years, those larger organizations have adopted open source paradigms, finding value in embracing the open source community as a means of delivering a higher quality product with less internal overhead.

IBM once painted the sides of New York City skyscrapers with Linux advertisements, but now it is Google that is causing radical shifts in open source product development, recently launching “Android”, a Linux operating system for PDAs and Cell phones.

Ten years ago it was exciting to see Linux adopted in any new device, but now it is so commonplace that no one thinks twice. Televisions, cell phones, real time image processing systems on-board military aircraft, land, and sea vehicles; embedded medical image processing systems (ie: CAT) and weather modeling supercomputers all run Linux.

Linux has overcome the challenge of being adopted and made common place. It’s future is truly limited, as the license enables (in the truest sense of this over-used word), only to the imagination of those who work with it and the power of the new hardware which it supports.

By |2017-04-10T11:17:46-04:00November 28th, 2008|At Home in the Rockies|0 Comments

Update from Morokoshi, Kenya

hand-stand new desks new desks

On 2008-10-09 Steve Muriithi, Morokoshi Founder wrote:

Thanks for your encouragement; i got 51.5 dollars … and added the money and bought ten tables. the are big enough for eight children. and can also be used by student who come to morokoshi to study they costed me 323.5 dollars. my juice bar have been of great help and contributed the money (272). The rest was donated by cameroun. the school is doing great and have been able to tap other talent like the one you can see … and now most of the kids can now read and write, is that not great?

This have been possible through hard work of the teachers and the management. when the fund is available we shall have 80 chairs which can be enough for two classes. one table is big for 8 children and 5 of them can be enough for a class. I believe by next year i will have a new class.

Lastly the solar and the library are doing great. cameroun our six month plan we have achieved!

– field making.
– desks.
– improvement in stardard of class work.and this you bare me witness from Amos.
– taping of some talent from the kids.

Although we may not have achieved much; but we have done our best.

Lastly id want to thank you for your concern on morokoshi and all you have done to see a change that we can believe in. though life have become so hard in kenya but we are trying our best to see that our heads keep up floating, and make sure that we move. welcome back to kenya.

By |2017-04-10T11:17:46-04:00October 9th, 2008|2008, Out of Africa|0 Comments

The Holographic Universe

Grand Illusion, Grand Connection
Some ten years ago I read a book titled “The Holographic Universe” by Michael Talbot. The concept for a holographic universe is built upon research conducted in 1982 by Alain Aspect and his team to disprove Einstein’s premise that nothing can travel faster than the speed of light. Indeed, Aspect and his team demonstrated that under certain circumstances subatomic particles appear to communicate instantaneously, which is according to the Theory of Relativity, impossible.

It is not, however, assumed that something is literally transmitted between the disparate particles, rather they are in fact two views of the same particle, meaning it is our point of view that is unique, not the particles themselves. This is explained through David Bohm’s theory that our experience of a three dimensional universe may be a projection, an illusion of sorts, built upon a two dimensional existence.

Talbot writes, “If the apparent separateness of subatomic particles is illusory, it means that at a deeper level of reality all things in the universe are infinitely interconnected. The electrons in a carbon atom in the human brain are connected to the subatomic particles that comprise every salmon that swims, every heart that beats, and every star that shimmers in the sky. Everything interpenetrates everything, and although human nature may seek to categorize and pigeonhole and subdivide, the various phenomena of the universe, all apportionments are of necessity artificial and all of nature is ultimately a seamless web.”

If we can learn to be conscious of this, we can experience a level of interpersonal, even universal connection that may transcend space and time. This concept was cornerstone to the more recent movie, “What the Bleep Do We Know!?”

Thinking about Thinking
The Holographic Universe continues, discussing how the human brain stores information in a manner similar to that of a hologram, the data not laid down in a serial fashion, one bit of our daily experiences after the other, rather, a fairly thin, wide distribution of data across the whole of those portions of the brain capable of storage.

Using memory loss as a means of understanding memory retention, the book explains that when people suffer physical trauma to the brain resulting in memory loss, there is not a precise hour or minute at which the memory stops, a gap, and then starts again. It is instead an indiscreet blank time, often with a fuzzy beginning and end. And with time, many of these memories are recovered.

If our life experiences were in fact stored in a linear fashion, one bit of data after the next throughout the multi-faceted, complex layers of our cerebral tissue, then if any portion of that grey matter were removed, yes, the memory loss would have an exact stop and start time with no chance of recovery.

A hologram is comprised of a complete image copied across many frames, each capable of recreating the whole. When all are illuminated and focused by means of a tuned laser, a complete three dimensional image is reproduced. If any one frame is lost, the overall image remains in tact.

For my own understanding, I consider a RAID5 array in which data spread across three or more computer hard drives in such a fashion that one drive may be lost and the remaining drives may reproduce the complete image.

Why then do most of our daily experiences fail to be easily recalled while others are so completely embedded in our life experience that they may be recalled with clarity for many, many years?

I am by no means an expert in this realm, my knowledge of this field of study limited to a few publications prepared for the lay-person coupled with my own experience. But that experience is perhaps the best tool for understanding how I (and likely others) work, on the inside.

As described in my entry about an evening at the Morokoshi School, Kenya, that experience which will remain with me for a long, long time. And in the unfolding of that evening, I knew even then that I was creating a deeply seated memory.

The ability to do this, to not only live in the moment but also be aware of that moment unfolding (almost from a third party point of view) is something I have been working toward for some time. However, this eludes me far more often than not, the busy-ness of life masking the calm required for that level of awareness and connection.

Why did those few hours at Morokoshi become so deeply impregnated in my memory? I believe the answer is in the multifaceted layers of sensory input which were stimulated and subsequently layered and interwoven in my memory.

Sharp shadows were cast by the kerosene lantern mixed with the subtle hiss of gas as it moved from pressurized storage into light and heat. Steve, Cameron, and I spoke in hushed voices so as to not wake Rie who slept in the chair adjacent to mine. Only the outline of Steve’s dark face was visible; Cameron’s lighter skin reflecting the yellow light from the corner of the room. I shifted often, my chair’s seat cushion far too thin. Burning coal, rice, beans, greens, and sweet tea filled the room with a complex, grounding aroma. Metal forks and wooden spoons rattled against aluminum pots in the adjacent kitchen. The music born of my cell phone, the cast of Rent holding to ideals, friendship, and love.

My eyes, ears, nose, body, and heart were stimulated while my sense of time was put to rest. If just one of these were the sole recording medium, this event may be like any other in my life, recorded yes, but not easily recalled. Combine all of them into a complete experience and I recall with intimate detail every aspect of those few hours, each of my senses able to re-invoke the experience as a whole. Listening to Rent, drinking sweetened tea, a phone call with Cameron or Rie, photos, even an email from Steve and I am back in Kenya. I smile for the depth and power of these memories.

A Wrinkle in Time
So what happens if the power of this experience is shared by more than just three or four people, but by dozens, even hundreds. Is it possible that the memory could be impregnated in more than just a human brain and body? Could the fabric of our universe contain more than what we are currently able to measure through collisions in particle accelerator chambers? What if there is a layer of data transmission and archiving which is always present, yet seldom noticed by the vast majority of humans?

The Holographic Universe moves from a description of scientific methodology into a more experiential description of how this world may yet contain a little … magic, a level of connection which we cannot fully explain.

[I searched my book shelves but cannot find my copy, as I must have loaned it to someone some time ago. I apologize if I fail to recall this story fully, writing entirely from a ten years old memory. I may edit this entry when I purchase another copy.]

There were two or three people (I do not recall) walking through a park on the East coast of the United States, when their peaceful surroundings were transformed into an active battle field (the civil war, if I recall correctly). Everything was present, the sound and smell of guns, the commotion of pulling the wounded from further harm; soldiers and medics intensely engaged. Even a stone wall emerged in that moment which was not of our current time.

And then it was gone as quickly as it had come, those who walked through the park stunned and overwhelmed by their shared experience. How can this be possible? Was this event so powerful, that through a wrinkle in time that event was somehow transfixed to that place? And why were these individuals able to experience this, together, when countless thousands have walked the same path, maybe even knowing the history of that place, and not been transported back in time?

I have experienced something on par with this just once in my life, as documented in an article I wrote for MacNewsWorld a few years ago, titled, “A Ghost and the Machine”. This story draws a correlation between experiencing connection over distance and connection through time.

I believe it is safe to say that most people have at some point in their life experienced a “cold” room when the temperature was not cold at all, or a “dark” place when there was ample light. Sometimes our dreams are so very real, that they haunt us for an entire day, changing our mood and interaction with others even when we know it was just a dream.

This is the stuff of ghost stories, of myth, and magic, yes, but it is also documented that many people experience this level of connection throughout the world. Some just once in their life, some more frequently, some on command. And to the later, values and titles are assigned which represent the culture as much as the insane, crazy, unstable, not-all-there, gifted, channeler, profit, or shaman.

Quieting the Noise
Studies have shown that a statistically interesting number of pre-formal education children are able to demonstrate some level of temporal precognition or ESP (ie: guesses at the color of a card on the opposite side of a barrier). But upon completing their first year of formal education (ie: preschool or kindergarten), the number of children with this ability drops nearly to the societal norm.

While some people seem to be gifted at birth, others (re)discover this level of awareness through meditation, the practice of removing the noise of our daily lives from the synaptic pathways of our brain and neuro-muscular system to allow for the otherwise subtle, mostly lost communications of our internal and external world to be received and experienced.

A friend of mine has been meditating for nearly four years, three of those intensively, two to four hours a day and once or twice a year, an intense two week session. Through this, she has gained a level of awareness that is, according to what she has shared, often overwhelming to her, stimuli overload in a world already burdened with too much information and not enough experience.

Last week she and her friend were visiting a temple, an ancient place. The path was bounded on one side by a stone wall. My friend approached the wall, intent upon something her friend did not see.

Her friend asked, “What are you doing?”

“I am going to the water, there, in the wall.”

“What? There is no water. There is only a wall.”

“There! [pointing] Water is coming from the wall.” She pointed to a place where she saw a solid flow of water come out from the wall, through a spigot. But it was not there, at least not in the confines of this time and space. An anomaly perhaps, which enabled her to experience something that was present a long time ago.

This level of awareness has just recently come into her life, not something she seeks nor even desires for it can be confusing for both her and those she is with. According to many, moving through the world with this level of awareness is something we are all capable of doing, but we are closed to the experience or have simply forgotten how.

Open Mind, Open Door
What if each of us is capable of an awareness beyond site, taste, touch, and sound? What if each of us may be able to experience something beyond our material world, if only we could set aside the material existence long enough to perceive it?

I harbor a scientific, mechanically inclined brain. I apply the basic laws of physics to everything I see and do. When I drive over a suspension bridge, I consider the tension in the cables, the pounds per square inch of car, undulating concrete, and steel. When I walk across the crust of the snow at elevation in the Rockies, most steps holding but some allowing me to fall through, I want to know why that particular patch gave way while the others held, the formation and strength of interwoven ice crystals somehow different in one location versus another.

This summer I was looking through thousands of slides from as many as twenty two years ago. I came across a few old friends, one of whom I had not heard from for seven or eight years. I set the slide aside, but the next morning received an email from her saying she was thinking about me and wanted to know how I was doing. I nearly fell from my chair.

When I experience coincidence that seems nearly impossible, I tell myself this is but a statistical extreme. But truly, I want to believe in something more. The book “Six Degrees” by Duncan Watts is a wonderful journey through the world of mathematical correlation and connection. Yes, it dispels some of what we want to believe is divine intervention or universal connection, but as archaeological evidence shows, we have been seeking an explanation for events in our lives for tens of thousands of year.

I too desire experience beyond that which my body directly enables. I want to learn to tie my senses to my memories so that each moment of my life is recorded with depth, so that every moment counts. I want to believe again in that which a parent, teacher, or priest may have said is impossible. I want to remember how to connect to a place and time which was so real for me as a child, and yes, feel a part of a much larger universe.

By |2017-04-10T11:17:46-04:00September 29th, 2008|The Written|0 Comments

Black Holes in Switzerland

Super collider sparks super conversation

black hole

MY BROTHER JAE ASKED
> So can this (www.cnn.com) really work?
> What would the black holes be like?

I RESPONDED
> Black holes may exist where a highly dense organization of mass is
> ample to cave in on itself. But for a black hole to continue to grow
> it must acquire mass … else, it collapses …
>
> So, if a black hole is so small that during its brief existence it
> cannot actually obtain any matter around it, then it burns out. The
> black holes this machine could create cannot gobble galaxies, let
> alone an arm chair in the office of the observer, for they are only a
> millionth of an inch across with about as much gravitational pull as a
> baseball on a moth. Nothing.

JAE INQUIRED
> even at that, where does the matter go that gets sucked in? let’s
> say an arm chair was sucked in, where would it go?

I RESPONDED
> So that is the interesting part. Some theories show a wormhole to
> another part of our universe (which would be a white hole, a place where
> matter just appears for no apparent reason) or into a parallel universe,
> the strength of the field energy enough to collapse the space-time
> continuum and bring two universes in contact.
>
> Let me get an expert … hold on :)
>
> kai

Hi Guys

Nice to “meet” you, Jae.

What Kai has described so far is pretty accurate. As far as the question of where the matter that a hole swallows goes, it is not completely understood because the interior of a black hole itself is not completely understood. This opens the doors for a lot of speculative ideas, including what what Kai mentioned. However, if you want to stick to what is generally accepted by physicists, here goes —

The problem with the black hole interior, is that it contains a mathematical singularity or an infinity. The reason for this infinity is that once matter has collapsed enough (i.e. become dense enough) that an event horizon has formed around it (i.e. a black hole has formed) it can be proved that the matter has to keep getting compressed indefinitely. In simpler words, because gravity is so strong for a such a compact object, it has to keep collapsing under its own weight — indefinitely. Nothing can stop this gravitational collapse. So, what is the end result of such a process? It would have to be a mathematical infinity — because it would eventually end up as a point (zero-size) with all that mass — the physical density (mass per unit volume) would literally be infinite! And we don’t think that Nature has real infinities floating around, so we know that is a serious problem in our understanding.

This infinity is also the reason that we can’t tell what happens next. Imagine you had a computer simulation crunching the numbers that follow the process of gravitational collapse. When the simulation would reach that infinitely dense state, the numerics would simply fail because they wouldn’t be able to handle a genuine, physical, infinity. This is the root cause of why our understanding of the interior structure of black holes is stuck. In addition, if you added more matter into the hole, it would also eventually settle in with the interior singularity!

There is hope though. We actually know why we encounter this problem — we even expected it! The reason is that in this picture we’re ignoring the Physics of the small i.e. quantum physics. The hope is that if we correctly incorporate both gravitational and quantum physics concepts — we wouldn’t have this problem.

Now, the problem of “quantum gravity” as needed here, is a big open problem in theoretical physics. Its over 60 years old and even individuals like Einstein and Feynman have tried their luck at it — with no success. The only thing that has come close, is String Theory, but that too has major issues of its own. I actually work on an approach to quantum gravity myself (with collaborators, of course) — one that is less ambitious and less radical when compared with String Theory. And we are trying to answer these types of questions in the context of that theory. This theory is called “loop quantum gravity” or “quantum geometry” and it is showing lots of promise. One of the cool results (results, not assumptions) of this theory is that space-time is fundamentally discrete (at a very small scale)! This is a radical shift from how we normally think of space and time, and is likely to help us address a host of current problems in theoretical physics. Stay tuned ;-)

Sorry this became somewhat long. But, I hope this helped a bit ..

Regards,
Gaurav

———————————————–

GAURAV KHANNA
UMass Dartmouth, Physics
http://gravity.phy.umassd.edu/

“Black holes are where God divided by zero.” – Steven Wright

By |2017-04-10T11:17:46-04:00September 10th, 2008|The Written|2 Comments

Highway to Hell

I am pleased to state that after a three months pause in my writing, I chose this afternoon to sit at my favorite home-away-from-home, Fort Collins’ Mugs cafe to work on a screenplay I left dormant for the past few years, re-inspired by recent events in my life.

But when the fruit smoothie and hummus tray were fully consumed, my belly full and brain sugar deplete, I found myself nodding-off. The repeating keys across the screen a clear sign that my body required Walrus ice cream if I were to remain at all functional. I left my laptop at my corner table, and headed north on College.

As I neared Mountain, the sound of classic rock ‘n roll grew in volume until it was clear there was an outdoor concert, common in Old Town Square in the summers. But what caught my attention was the genre, “Highway to Hell” by AC/DC on a Sunday afternoon. With my single scoop of Bing Cherry in a chocolate dipped sugar cone, I walked across College and into the walking district of historic Fort Collins. The quality of the cover was surprisingly good.

High Voltage kids band

But as I neared the stage, I could barely see the three guitarists or lead singer. Only in the final steps was it apparent these hard core rock ‘n roll enthusiasts were between the ages of ten and fourteen (tops).

The lead singer could have been a stand-in for Harry potter in the first two movies, his medium length bangs covering the upper half of his wire-rim glasses. The stage-right guitarist wore a white Oxford style shirt, tie, blue coaching shorts, and low-top Converse classics.

The tallest of the crew by two heads was of course the bass guitarist, a girl maybe fifteen years of age, but likely less. The drummer was clad only in shorts, his skinny, pale upper torso not much larger in diameter than the drum sticks he wielded.

I thought for certain this was a lip-sync show, for the tone of the lead vocalist was dead-on, his prepubescent screeching highs a perfect, even if uncontrolled match for the original recordings. A guy wearing a black Motley Crue tour shirt stood to the front. He held his right hand high, fingers splayed, and lowered his head in respect for this dynamic kid crew.

High Voltage kids band

They finished their set with High Voltage Rock ‘n Roll (the namesake of their band), the guitarist clad in Converse walking into the center of the crowd, his wireless feed perpetuating his high speed, high energy finger play as he fell to his knees and then right hip, spinning in a complete circle.

The crowd demanded more, but the next band was already standing at the ready, eager to have their shot at the lime light. Wow! What a fantastic show of young talent and courage.

By |2017-04-10T11:17:46-04:00September 7th, 2008|At Home in the Rockies|1 Comment

Tour de Fat ‘08

Gun Sling’n Matt

This famous, world record setting, multi-city bicycle parade “Tour de Fat” emphasizes turning off the car and turning on your body (and drinking beer, but not while you are riding your bike of course).

New Belgium Brewing company owners Kim and Jeff have for more than a decade promoted clean energy use and re-use. This is not just hype, but a showcase of real, sustainable systems that set an example for us all. The New Belgium Brewery located in Fort Collins, Colorado is Northern Colorado’s largest consumer of wind energy; the methane gas captured through their own internal water treatment is used to generate electricity; the heat generated by the boilers is recycled to heat the building in the winter; all employees are given a bicycle in reward for two years employment—and much, much more.

The Tour de Fat (Fat Tire label beer, that is) started at 9 am Saturday morning. With an estimated 7,500 people (and at least as many bikes), the parade meandered through Fort Collins for more than an hour. It was visually overwhelming, the creativity in costume and unique bikes astounding. People sat to the front of their homes along the parade route cheering the slow-going riders along. There were 4 bikes pulling an old car, bikes tricked-out as airplanes, bikes over ten feet tall, and in my cousin’s case (who broke both his feet mountain biking six weeks prior), well, he was just along for the ride.

Cousins Nathan and Brandon huh? Air hockey anyone? Staci

7,500 people Check out that doo! Captain Will Captain Will Dude looks like a lady

By |2017-04-10T11:17:46-04:00September 6th, 2008|At Home in the Rockies|0 Comments

Bouldering, Bikes, & Bullies

Old Dog, New Tricks
For the past ten years I have been an avid boulderer, a technical and powerful form of climbing without ropes. I have climbed with fairly religious zeal, two to three times each week since the summer of 1998. This has been my means of maintaining my center, of building friendships, and enjoying the outdoors, from southern Idaho to Bend Oregon, from Bishop to Joshua Tree, Queen Creek to Hueco Tanks, The Box to Moab, Chaos to the 420s. I have climbed in the U.S., Mexico, Cuba, Spain, Japan, and India.

And everywhere I have climbed, nearly without exception, I have been met with joyful, playful, fun-loving, supportive, good-natured people. The sport itself is an internal competition far more than one between climbers. Climbing promotes personal health, strength, and focus.

Last year I was introduced to mountain biking, which I find an incredible balance to climbing.

Climbing is slow, methodical, planned, and graceful. With bouldering in particular, one finds his or her ass firmly planted on the ground while contemplating a series of moves, visualizing over and over and over again only to strain, scream, and fall in a matter of seconds. Each move is carefully executed, each contraction of every muscle planned, tweaked, and tuned to adjust the center of gravity for the perfect balance, reach, and position. Twenty seconds is a considered a long burn in most instances. Then back to the seated position, nursing fingers and toes.

Mountain biking is quite perfectly the opposite, the human brain making split-second decisions so fast that most muscle contractions and balance reactions are happening in nearly complete autonomy. I remember the first time I came down a trail, on the Northern base of the peaks in Flagstaff, Arizona. In my attempt to keep up with Christa, I laughed aloud for the realization that my brain had not been asked to respond that quickly to that many stimuli for a long time. It reminded me of sprinting across a boulder field, bounding from one house sized rock to another, each a leap of faith with mid-air correction to safely attain the landing zone only presented at the peak of the arc.

But with mountain biking the stakes are higher, for the speed is greater and the potential for broken bones (as demonstrated last summer by both my cousin Brandon and friend Amy) vastly increased. By no means do I claim expertise in this sport, for I am but a novice. However, what I have experienced in Colorado, Arizona, and Utah I have enjoyed.

Ironically, I do not actually like mountain biking while I am doing it. In fact, I rather hate it. It is frustrating. It is painful. I shed more blood in the first month of mountain biking than in the prior nine years of bouldering. And I have determined that more expensive bikes do in fact hold up to abuse better than those of lesser quality, in particular, when deliberately hurled after the tenth failed attempt at riding a particular stretch of technical trail. Mountain bikes equate to pain. Clipping-in is a nearly certain correlation to tearing skin from bone, usually at a complete stand-still, which only adds to the humiliation of the event and utter, long-term damage to the ego.

And so this past summer, in an attempt to further expand my horizons (and potential for bodily harm), I took up another biking activity, BMX and skate parks.

Never Too Late to Learn
Quite honestly, I am fifteen, maybe twenty years late. I was suppose to have learned this stuff a long, long time ago. Most everyone at the parks are between six and sixteen years old, the noted “old timers” in their twenties. They complain of pain and slow healing. I laugh and remind them that I am 38.

My good friend Sean is an exceptional and patient teacher, giving me lines of progressing difficulty. In the first day (riding my full suspension FXR mountain bike, mind you) I was able to dive into and pop out of the 6-8 foot bowls. On the second day, I learned to jump up steps and control the pitch of my bike mid-air. But on the third day I was met with a challenge quite unexpected.

While the Lory State Park dirt track hosts a variety of riders, from BMX to dirt jumpers to downhillers, the skate park is, true so many movies, a place were rough kids ride tough. But what I witnessed remains confusing for me, and difficult to let go.

Five kids sat along a concrete bench, a steel curbed platform for skateboarders to hit and slide (quite confident my vocabulary is completely wrong). A heavier kid sat in the middle of the other four, three to his left, one to his right. He had his head down, a little pink in the cheeks. The kid to his immediate left was half his weight and a bit shorter, but his mouth was unusually potent. Most of these kids, ages 7 to 17 are at the park alone, their use of profanity not so concerning to me as the smoking and outward, aggressive violence toward one another.

Laughing for the Wrong Reasons
The thin kid slapped the heavier kid upside the head. The other kids laughed. Then he did it again. The bully of the group encouraged him, saying, “Hit him again! Harder!” He did. A sixth kid, taller and older, maybe mid-teens literally explained to the kid on the right how to hit him with a right hook. He did. The kid in the middle tried to defend himself, but he now had two and three kids hitting him at one time, from all sides. In the face, across the back of his head, and arms.

Everyone was laughing but me and the kid who was the center of this attention. My blood was boiling. He was crying, which of course only increased the beating and laughter, “Oh! Are you crying? What’s the matter? Can’t take it?”

I rolled over on my bike, “Hey guys. Not cool. Not cool at all. Knock it off, ok?”

The bully immediately responded, completely unabated, “What’s your problem? This has nothing to do with you.”

I have to admit I did not expect a ten or twelve year old to stand-up to me with such determination. “You keep hitting him, you have to deal with me.”

“Yeah?! You can deal with my dad.”

Now that caused two reactions in me. At first I nearly laughed for he had perfectly played the part of the Disney bully, ready to beat the timid, but equally eager to call his dad when things turned against him. But then my brain built an image of a stocky man with a handlebar mustache, ripped jeans, wife-beater, and baseball bat (or worse) saying, “My kid here tells me you been caus’n trouble?”

I changed my approach. “Nice kid. You can dish it out but you can’t take it. Go ahead, call your dad. Love to talk to him and tell him about how you treat your friends here. What’s his number? I’ve got my cell.”

“What’s it to you? This doesn’t fuck’n matter to you?”

“Yeah, actually, it fucking does. I came here to have fun. To learn how to ride. But when you and your buddies are beating this other kid, it ruins my day.”

He was relentless, his animosity growing. The profanity outweighing any real words. Another rider popped out of the bowl, having witnessed the growing tension.

He handled it better than I did, saying simply, “Weak guys. Real weak.” He was a good rider, and well respected. I was a newbie, my third day –ever.

They disbanded. But the energy of their anger did not.

I could not shake the emotion of that event. I still cannot quite come to terms with what drives children to exercise such animosity and outward aggression toward each other.

While I do not have children of my own, yes, I have seen this before, most recently in my work in Kenya. But it still causes me to pause and wonder how the pattern is broken. When does a kid who is raised in domestic violence at any level, at home, at school, or at the skate park, grow-up to recognize that it is not ok, that hitting another human only invokes a chain reaction which perpetuates for generations. It is a domino effect with each fallen chip pushing the next to fall.

Why are these kids like this? How can such a new life, some less than a decade old, exhibit such raw anger and hatred, especially in a suburbia of Northern Colorado?

My friends Sean, Staci, and Matt later told me I should have just let it go, let the kids figure it out themselves. Maybe I should. But that doesn’t feel right. If there were four teenagers ganging up on one, should something be done? How about four forty year-olds? Call the cops, right? If not the later, then why the former? Are not the kids the most impressionable? The ones who need the most guidance? The ones who still have a chance to get it right?

The Bike & the Bully
A week or two later, I was at the park at the same time as the bully. He rode past Sean as I entered and did my first round, to warm up. He made a rude comment about me and my mountain bike. Sean mentioned this to me. So I rode over to him and said, “So, wassup?”

He replied, “Noth’n man. Noth’n.”

I asked, “Hey, you want to try my bike?”

He was obviously startled, looking at me and then my bike, “Seriously?”

Smiling, “Yeah, of course. It’s all yours. Just don’t wreck it too bad, ok?”

“Yeah, no problem. Cool.”

And since then, he has been ok. In fact, when I finally broke down and bought a proper Felt park bike, he wanted to ride that too. Yes, the tension is still there. The kids are still terribly mean to each other. But I have a better sense of how to dispell the tension, when I can, and how not to let it affect me. If I can break the pattern for just a few minutes and help the bully remember what it’s like to not be on the defense, then maybe he’ll return the favor to someone, someday. Maybe.

By |2017-04-10T11:17:46-04:00August 19th, 2008|At Home in the Rockies|0 Comments

Let There Be Light!

The fruit of innovation
Just off Kenyatta Avenue in downtown Nakuru is the Top Market, a delightful assembly of fruit and vegetable stands interlaced with hand-made baskets, tobacco, and spices. At it’s center is stall #169 where the Morokoshi Juice Bar serves an uncommon array of fruit smoothies. Promoted in a fashion familiar to those in the Western world, this Kenyan original offers concoctions made from mango, passion fruit, papaya, banana, orange, lemon, avocado, and sugar cane. All are made fresh on the spot with the use of electric blenders, served in clean glass cups.

Stephen Muriithi, Top Market chairman and owner of this fruit stand has broken the commonplace repetition of selling the same thing, stall after stall. Instead, with the assistance of his sister and dedicated staff, he has combined his two years university education in the Culinary Arts and Health with an innate business sense to not only run a successful fruit and juice stand, but to also fund a nursery and kindergarten school on his farm land, just outside of Nakuru.

Top Market Steve’s home Morokoshi classroom kids eating lunch

From sweet corn to classroom
Initially motivated three years prior by the enthusiasm of a Japanese tourist who volunteered at Steve’s fruit stand, Steve’s vision for a holistic school in the rural farmland was given form. The following year, another set of Japanese tourists were moved to help him and initiated the Nakuru Family Project. And this year Japanese SPAN volunteer Rie Haga serendipitously found Steve, the fruit stand, and the Morokoshi School.

The first classes were held in the living room of Steve’s humble mud wall home, the concrete floor serving a dozen children. Construction of the first classroom, also a mud wall building currently without door, wooden frame nor glass for windows, was completed just last year. A second building on adjacent, rented land serves as the kindergarten classroom and orphanage for two children without parents.

kids dancing at recess

Now, in its second year of operation, Morokoshi (from the Japanese word “tomorokoshi” for “sweet corn”) is a center of enthusiastic learning for fifty pre-school and 25 five to six year old children who walk as far as a few kilometers every morning. They carry backpacks or shoulder bags with notebook and lunch, arriving between 6:30 and 7:30 am, class starting promptly at 8:00 am.

SpanAfrica Director Cameron Dunkin met Steve just before the school opened, in 2005, and has maintained communication with him since. Cameron worked this spring with Morokoshi teachers to share his formal experience with teaching methods and materials. SPAN is pleased to have Morokoshi as a Partner Project site and welcomes new volunteers to work with Steve, the teachers, and students in this beautiful, rural setting.

Let there be light
Last year my former high school physics professor Dan Heim, from Brophy College Preparatory in Phoenix, Arizona, donated eight photo voltaic solar panels, used originally to power Dan’s water pump at his New River home. Beneath the car port of my parent’s home in Phoenix, my father and I built sturdy wooden shipping crates which served well in safely transporting the panels to Nakuru last year.

Cameron, Steve, Rie testing first panel

As a kid, I played with basic electrics, disassembling my parent’s alarm clock and pocket calculator to build a simple remote controlled car or robotic arm; some powered by batteries, some by solar panels. Having built one and remodeled two homes and worked closely with the electrical engineer who built-out the 3000 sq-ft high performance computing facility for Sony in the summer of 2006, I am confident with my electrical wiring.

But a completely self-contained power generating station was new territory for me, and so I asked Dan to guide me through the basics of solar system design. He delivered an email which I translated into a spreadsheet to calculate the number of run-time hours based upon the quantity and power of PV panels, quantity and capacity of batteries, conversion to 110V or 220V A/C, system efficiency, and appliances attached.

The first evening at Morokoshi, we filled the new battery with fresh acid, nearly topping off each cell with one bottle each. I then began instruction for the use of a multi-meter to test voltage. We also connected the inverter, my laptop, and Steve’s cell phone to demonstrate the basic function of the system. It worked flawlessly!

The next morning we dove into the design of the wooden frame which would hold the panels and secure them to the corrugated roof of the office, located neatly between the house and school. The frame needed to be ridged, shed water, and enable air flow beneath the panels to keep them from overheating (which reduces the effective conversion of sunlight to electricity, the potential thermal difference a significant factor in the potential electrical difference from silicon semiconductor to conductor backplane).

Brian helps with construction kai attaching panels to frame wiring the panels hoisting the panels Rie mounting the panels

Steve, Cameron, Rie, and I walked three or four kilometers to the local lumber yard. After some seemingly complicated communication over a relatively simple order, we were granted freshly planed timbers which I cut to length by hand during a power outage. We carried the lumber back to the school, on foot, and after lunch rapidly built the wooden frame and secured the panels with two screws each. With the help of a local boy Brian, maybe eight years of age) and his younger brother, and through the loan of a good bit-n-brace and handsaw by a willing neighbor, we managed to get the frame completed in just one full day.

the brain of the system

I showed Steve, Cam, and Rie how to wire the panels in parallel, maintaining 12V D/C but increasing the Amperage. Steve, Cameron, and I located the ideal position for the batteries in the office, built a shelf, and then mounted one of the masonite panels (from the shipping crates) to the wall, a clean slate for the power management station.

The next morning, we hoisted the frame and panels to the roof and ran the wire into the office through the gap between the roof and the wall. The system came together nicely, the charge controller performing its functions of both monitoring the low and high voltage of the batteries while determining when to pass power from the panels directly to the inverter or to charge the battery, or both.

charge controller

Steve was a quick study, eager every morning to enter the office and learn that even as early as 6:30 am, the charge controller’s green LED signified that the batteries were charging. Less than ten kilometers from the equator, at greater than 5,000 feet elevation, the cool nights are met with early sun and a good ten hours of charge time each and every day. Even during the afternoon rains the panels were in fact generating some electric flow, ample to satisfy the charge controller.

In the course of just five days, two with the assistance of Cameron before his return to Canada, Rie and I wired the entire school and office. We included a proper breaker box (called a “consumer” in Kenya) so that as the system grows, and the inverter provides not just 300W, but 1200W, eventually 2400W and the appliances draw more power than that of a cell phone charger or light bulb, the system is able to accommodate.

Steve under the new lights

And at 7 pm the final night of our work at Morokoshi, I asked Steve to come to the classroom. I flipped the switch and instantly four compact florescent bulbs came to life, gradually warming to their maximum 20W power. His eyes and face too lit with a bright smile and warm embrace, “Oh! This is, … this is something wonderful. You have brought light to Morokoshi. We thank you Kai. Thank you.”

I chose the higher Wattage bulbs (over the more common 11W units) for their softer light, a glass shell around the otherwise harsh, naked tube. The spreadsheet showed that even when we doubled the energy consumption, the 200W generation at just 6 hours each day into 100 Amp-Hours of batteries more than compensates for two, maybe three hours of lights each night.

Download a spreadsheet to help design a Grid-Tied or Off-Grid solar PV generation system, including a calculation of Return On Investment (ROI) calcuation for Grid-Tied systems. These spreadsheets are the result of a foundation initially developed as an educational tool while at Morokoshi in the spring of 2008.

Ultimately, it is Steve’s goal to gain donation of one or more computers so that he may grant his young students a more comprehensive learning environment with interactive DVDs, educational documentaries about their own and foreign countries, and basic computer skills. He is currently researching how to bring the internet to his rural school, via satellite or cell phone.

How do you measure a year in the life?
Those five days at Morokoshi were days that gave me a true sense of calm, a needed balance to the failure in negotiations with Pistis to bring an end to corporal punishment. I found a place in my heart where I truly believed in the work I was conducting. And I found I was more comfortable talking and eating by kerosene lantern in Steve’s mud home than in the four-star hotels in India just three weeks prior. I needed nothing more than those basic comforts, bringing me back to my childhood on a farm in rural Iowa.

I have spent my adult life seeking, striving for those moments when life just pauses, when time is no longer important and there is a sense of belonging to the moment more than it belongs to me. I have experienced this a few times in my life, when backpacking, climbing, and laughing with friends while hiding from the rain beneath a boulder at 10,000 feet; when playing piano, painting Christmas cards by firelight, sharing deep breaths with my lover, and just recently, an evening at Morokoshi, Kenya.

On a particularly cool, crisp night, the kerosene lamp illuminated the interior of Steve’s mud wall home while outside the stars overhead were nearly as bright as when I was a kid on my grandparents’ farm. Cameron and I sang to the musical Rent which played on my Sony-Ericsson Walkman. Steve’s companion and her assistant cooked in the kitchen over a coal stove while Steve studied the owner’s manual for the charge controller, and sleep found Rie while she sat upright on the sofa.

a still life by kerosene lantern

I remember when I was impressed with the sensation of capturing that moment. It settled into my body the way a cat curls up on your lap and falls into a deep, safe sleep. I looked around the room and experienced everything in a freeze-frame, just for a moment, as though someone had flipped a switch. Life paused. And I paused with it.

By day Steve’s radio was tuned to the local EZ station which played ’80s love ballads and soft rock. Phil Collins, Air Supply, and Fleetwood Mac accompanied the lunch time pleasure of ugali and greens or a simple noodle dish always accompanied by chai (hot tea, fresh whole milk, and cane sugar). The sheep cried for attention and the chickens walked in and out of the living room, cleaning the floor of those morsels which fell from our plates.

These are memories that will last a lifetime. Thank you Steve, Cameron, Rie … and Morokoshi.

By |2017-04-10T11:17:46-04:00June 2nd, 2008|2008, Out of Africa|1 Comment

A Return to Pistis

Blackout at Kenyatta International
True to the spirit of Kenya, the power was restored at Jomo Kenyatta International Airport after a two hours blackout (which I later learned affected not just Nairobi, but a good portion of the country). The hundred or so travelers who sat in near dark of the restaurant at the end of the terminal expressed their relief. But when the power died again and the interior lighting returned to emergency fixtures only, the crowd erupted into laughter for the true humor of the situation. It’s Kenya. The power comes and goes with the apparent will of the rains, a nearly daily event which may last for a few minutes, or several hours.

At 9 PM the power returned and seemed to be content to remain on. I enjoyed a little more than two hours battery with my laptop, catching up on email which had evaded my attention for the past two weeks. Nearly thirty written and placed into cue, to be sent via the cyber cafe 8 exits away.

I sit here now, just an hour before boarding my flight to London Heathrow and then to Munich, Germany for a Power.org conference. This, the final leg of my nearly three months round-the-world tour: three weeks in Japan, three weeks in India, a week in Singapore and the Philippines, and then three weeks here in Kenya.

chopping lettuce

Welcome home
Arrival at Pistis and reunion with the children was wonderful. Handshakes, hugs, smiles, and laughter–I felt as though I had never left. A hot plate of ugali and spicy greens eaten with fingers from the bottom of a frisbee or simple metal dish, and I was again in my Kenyan home.

It was my intent to spend very little time with physical projects and more time helping CMD-Pistis improve its business management. I met with the Bishop, Gladys, Leonard, and their new CPA to listen, learn, and share how they may integrate cashflow management as a look to the future, proper book keeping as a record of the past. Leonard and I collaboratively built a project management spreadsheet to help guide the many daily, mid- and long-term projects at CMD-Pistis. It is such a joy to give someone a new tool, a hammer, drill, or spreadsheet. Leonard and I are very similar, both in age and mindset with too many ideas to execute in a single lifetime. Therefore, what I offered him was more than just a spreadsheet, but a new way thinking that I had discovered only a few years prior.

I feel really good about the work I did with them, offering my experience as an entrepreneur who has made every mistake possible and yet pulled through, time and time again for nearly a decade. I wish sometimes that someone would have guided me more carefully when I started Terra Soft, perhaps helping to avoid some of the larger pitfalls. But experience avoided is wisdom lost.

But things were not quite the same.
Through conversations with Wycliffe, Jacintah, and Leonard, I learned that during the January skirmishes entire families took shelter and lived in the bath house, the stalls providing a place to lay down bedding and sleep in relatively safety. Stephen the architect, with whom I worked extensively last year, fled his home with his family, all living in the same bath house that he designed and built just a few months prior. How ironic. How humbling. Only one month ago did the last family move out.

But two weeks prior to my arrival, twenty six or twenty seven students were taken to the hospital with dysentery, pointing to high density, unhealthy living conditions.

wheel borrow

My first day in the compound, I noted and took charge of two outstanding projects: completion of the bath house plumbing and complete cleaning and repair of the kitchen stoves and pipes. Apparently, the cleaning job I paid for last year, initiated the morning I left, was incomplete. The fundis had done little more than beat the sides of the pipes with one of the wooden paddles used to cook ugali, rice, or beans.

I solicited a young man who worked at a local metal shop just around the corner from the school to provide an estimate for proper repair. Last year, their price was too high. But this time he worked under the table for less and in just one Sunday morning and afternoon skillfully disassembled the kitchen stove pipes, cleaned them properly, and built a new metal lattice that holds the wood off the bottom, enabling airflow beneath the burning wood.

The bath house required only two afternoons of adjustments and parts replacements by two plumbers hired at the recommendation of Charles, with whom I worked last year. The walkway to the school remained in fairly good condition, the stones that lined the drainage trench reset in a stronger configuration. The food storage system remained strong and clean, the mice population for the most part no longer mingling with the bags of corn, beans, and rice. The outside of the compound wall had been painted with large, fun “ABCs”, a colorful animal associated with each. Someone directly funded this project, and so even at a time when food was scarce, the schools aesthetics were enhanced. This was later a topic of conversation with Leonard, Gladys, and the Bishop–what to do when funds are directed by a remote donor but other needs are more pressing.

rie with kids

The funds we raised in January were put to good use, food on the shelves, some shoes on feet, new beds. Thank you again to everyone who so quickly contributed. But not ample to fully support the needs of Pistis. Too many remain without shoes. Too many who do not know how to hustle to makes ends meet. Too many who do, carrying forward the skills they learned on the streets with behavior that undermines the school’s organization and rules.

With nearly thirty new orphans, the compound is noticeably at its maximum occupancy. A new girls’ dormitory was recently constructed from an existing steel frame structure, the fifty odd girls moved from their former, highly congested quarters of a single classroom where many had been sleeping in adjacent classrooms, their bedrolls returned by morning.

The ash of wood and bone.
No one can prepare for what happened in January. Having been in Nakuru both before and following the skirmishes, I was but a visitor to a scene of the crime, stories told by the remnants of homes, by the ashes of wood and bone mixed now with soil, and by the voices of Jacintah, Leonard, and Wycliffe.

I remain in horror with the knowledge of what humans can do to each other in times such as those, war at any level so easily toppling the structure of organized society into fear, self-preservation, and chaos.

Kelvin Wafula

At the same time, I am in awe for the spirit of humanity, for the desire to press ahead, to pick up and continue. If I were unaware of what transpired just a few months prior, I would not have known. My own sense of “something is not quite right” was due almost entirely to my knowledge of what had transpired. I could not help but look at the faces of those who passed me on the streets, those who solicited me for a boda-boda or matatu ride to town or for the sale of a trinket I did not need, and wonder what role they may have played. Did they stay home and protect their family? Or did they sharpen a machete and take to the streets?

Through the stories I have received, and through my own experience, I have learned that the definition of “friend”, the construct of trust is not consistent from culture to culture. Integrity is not given the same value. Even “value” carries a different meaning when values themselves may be a luxury unaffordable to those who just barely survive.

The Value of Time and Materials
Last year I had dinner with an electrician and a seamstress, a newly married couple who lived in the compound across the alley way from Pistis. We spoke briefly of business, of the frustration I had experienced in the seemingly ill-founded quotes I received on a regular basis when working with local contractors.

I asked the young man how he conducted his quotes. He looked down at his feet, laughed lightly, and said, “I offer a quote for what I need that day, and what I believe my customer is willing to pay. If I need a new television, then that is what I charge.” He was uncomfortable in sharing this with me, but not ashamed. It is not the only means of doing business, but where price tags exist only in super markets, bartering is the cultural norm. I quickly provided a description of a proper time and materials estimate, and he honestly stated he had never conducted such a thing. He thought it was a good idea, but did not think it would work in Kenya. I had made it work last year, but yes, it was a struggle.

At first take, this seems absurd. I drew judgment. But when I stopped to think about it, to place the conversation in the context of this country and not my own, at a time before Western commerce was introduced, there is an elegance in this system. I considered that the electrical wire itself, the sockets, the switches, the bulbs, even the labor carried no intrinsic value, much in the same way that the native Americans saw no value in the European settlers buying and selling land–for it was not theirs to own in the first place.

In this mindset, this cultural norm, the accepted means by which value is applied to a job is not necessarily based on the work itself, but on the value that either party perceives to be appropriate and eventually agrees to exchange. One may find honor in this. And if it were not for the fact that mis-quotes result in unfinished projects due to materials which do in fact carry real value in the market place, this style of barter and commerce is in many respects balanced and fair, those who can afford more, pay more.

But when building foundations are laid, and then left to crumble, or when a series of bids are so completely off that the contractor finds himself borrowing funds from a new job to complete an old, the web of dishonest stories invokes mistrust. Who will complete the project and who will change their cell phone number when the funds run dry?

In this circular story are often indirect answers given with diverted eye contact. I experienced the same Kenya as I did last year, but my perception has changed. While handshakes, smiles, and warm brotherly greetings continue to penetrate my cautious exterior, inside I know that a true friend in a place such as this must be earned over many, many years, or perhaps, never found.

Cameron & John

Goodbye, for now.
Cameron, Board member for SPAN and I delivered a notice of termination of funds and volunteers to the management of CMD-Pistis for reasons I am choosing to not share here, in this public forum. The document was well researched and sincerely worded, but in retrospect too harsh in its demands, a cultural lesson learned. The debate that followed escalated. Friendships fell to confusion, family bonds were broken. Cameron and I left Nakuru with tears in our eyes for a level of innocence replaced with reality. I remain confused for who and what to believe. I continue to process what transpired and try to understand with an open mind–judgment a tool for justice, not a bridge to reconciliation.

These people have been through hell and back and we will never understand what that means. We know only that as an organization, SPAN must draw clear boundaries for what we support and what we do not, we look forward to a time when we can again come to Pistis to be greeted by the laughter of children whose futures are forever uncertain, but their ability to move ahead without parents nor family to fall back upon, unwavering.

By |2017-04-10T11:17:46-04:00May 31st, 2008|2008, Out of Africa|1 Comment

Bouldering at Hampi, India

temple A climber’s heaven on Earth
The bus came to a stop at Hospet at 7:30 am Sunday morning. I slept fitfully for the previous eight hours, to say the least, having sat up-right while the bus rumbled over less than adequate roads at greater than appropriate speeds. No matter, removed from air conditioned taxis, hotels, and offices, I feel I was finally experiencing India.

From Hospet, I engaged the first auto rickshaw that caught my attention, negotiated a price, and set off for Hampi. The rickshaw driver took me to the Suresh Guest House, a hotel/restaurant owned by his uncle B. Nagesh, neatly placed half way between the market and the river. Quiet, safe, inexpensive, and with good food, it was a pleasant stay.

kai bouldering

Hampi is a climber’s paradise. A small tourist town of 2,500. Hot, relatively dry, interwoven with a network of rivers and streams and granite boulders for miles and miles and miles, literally from horizon to horizon. I never imagined anything like this could exist. Ten lifetimes of climbing.

I have met so many incredible people on this journey, in Japan, and now in India. But only when I slow down and make time to talk do I engage and get beyond handshakes and smiles. I have enjoyed conversations with hotel employees, guest house owners, travel agents, and some travelers like myself. The locals in Hampi are very personable, beyond the interaction of sales. They seem truly interested in those who pass through their shops, hostels, and homes. They learn your name and do not forget. They wave on the streets. They smile, if you smile first.

jumping at the reservoir

In particular, I have spent a lot of time with a rickshaw driver Veerish. My first day in Hampi he helped me find an elderly, toothless man who rents crash pads for climbers. I learned that his son, a climber, had died a few years ago, the gear he rents formerly that of his son. Initially I engaged Veerish as my guide, but we quickly became friends. Having never guided climbers before, we had a great deal of fun looking for climbing problems together, using a dismally poor map. Afternoons were spent swimming at the local reservoir. He taught me about the local area and I helped him with improve his swimming technique.

Veerish

Veerish has diabetes. He must spend 170 rupees ($4.25) each day for insulin. When I mention him to the locals, they know of his situation. They shook their heads, saying he will never marry because he is diseased and has difficulty making a good living. But he is in fact getting married in just twelve days. Veerish is the son of a farmer and while not impoverished, is quite poor by Indian standards. If he misses his shots for just one day, his skin boils and becomes infected. A travel agent’s brother used to store Veerish’s medicine in the soda fountain fridge. I offered that if he is ever without insulin due to lack of money, to contact me. I know there are millions like this in India, and the government helps where it can, but they do not always come through.

The owner of my guest house was upset with me this morning as last night I did not return. He said he had looked everywhere for me, and called my mobile several times. My phone did not work, reception switching from an emergency network to a valid connection every other dozen meters, depending upon my elevation and line-of-site to the horizon.

temple art

I had crossed the river with the last ferry at 6:30 pm, showed photos of the American Southwest to Veerish, and then stayed at his home across the river. I got up at 5:30 am to climb before the heat, then came back around noon. I did not know there is a penalty if I am hurt while under his care. But this was more personal, for he was truly concerned for my safety. A cultural lesson learned.

I enjoy watching people bathe in the river, morning to night. A time for men, women, and children to play as much as they do wash. Elephants too, their human companions small in comparison and yet masters of their movement. The monkeys are a bit aggressive, likely encouraged by careless tourists. But monkeys really do go ape-shit over bananas, swiping them from your hostel room, unattended hand bags, even directly from your hands if you are not careful, barking their discontent if you do not contribute on demand.

bathing elephant women in market sunset over Hampi

Tonight I must return to the chaos of Bangalore where 40,000,000 manage to live in relative harmony. I yet struggle to comprehend the numbers, my engineering mind racing to visualize the water, sewage, electrical, and phone systems required to support this many humans. I am flying to Chennai again Thursday morning. This weekend or Monday to Delhi. Next Friday or Saturday to Singapore to meet with IBM, Xilinx, and a university animation lab. Wednesday the 23rd to the Philippines to meet with education administrators. The 26th, finally, to Kenya, the same week I was originally to have come home.

By |2017-04-10T11:17:46-04:00May 10th, 2008|Out of Asia|0 Comments
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